After two failed attempts, last week I could eventually sneak into Santo Stefano Rotondo, which is an old (and round) basilica in the area of Celio (the Caelian Hill, behind the Coliseum). It is devoted to Saint Stephen of Hungary and is therefore the catholic Hungarian Church (and also catering for German community).

The church dates back from the second half of the fifth century.
It has a lovely light and purity of shapes.

Santo Stefano Rotondo

It boasts a second century Mithraeum which I could not visit because it is under refection but what the church is most renown about is the set of 34 frescoes which depicts the martyrs of the Christians


Her heart bleeds fro you

This poor devil is being stoned:

Martyr scene

This one is being flayed

Martyr scene

While these poor devils are being boiled:

Martyr scene

The scenes were commissioned by Gregory XIII in the 16th century.
As you can see - or guess - each painting has underneath there is an inscription explaining the scene and giving the name of the emperor who ordered the execution
The paintings are often is a bad state of repair:

Martyr scenes

Oh, look! Someone is getting fried!

Martyr scenes

Another series:

Martyr scenes
 

While in this side chapel, only reigns light.

A side chapel
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